944

An Editor's Hunt for the IT Comfort Food

There's a reason why I've been flat-out beating up the treadmill five days a week, sweating like a basketball player with Culture Club's “I'll Tumble for Ya” on repeat on my iPod Touch. It's the same reason I've been on a possessed hunt lately, studying, lurking, lingering in every restaurant, sports bar, pub, tavern, hangout and hole-in-the-wall in San Diego. Much like a premeditative bengal tiger on the loose, stalking its prey. Lately I've been distracted, tense, jumpy. And using quadruple what is considered a normal usage of Wet Naps.

The reason for the madness? Two words: tater tots. Just like mom and Ore-Ida used to make when I was a kid. But souped-up tots. Gourmet tots. Tots accompanied by fun dipping sauces like chipotle ketchup and herbed aioli. Slightly greasy, “hello, gorgeous; how'd you get so golden brown?” tots. (Hence the need for cardio to sweat off each greasy morsel of fried potato deliciousness. I figure I burn off approximately 4.6 tots for every three minutes and 33 seconds Culture Club offers to tumble for me.)

All my intense research as of late has led to this potentially controversial and earth-shattering proclamation: Tater tots are the new mac 'n' cheese. In fact, they might just be the new truffled parmesan frite. I'd even go as far as to say they're THE new comfort food. The audacity of me!

True North serves them with every sandwich (still a fan after my second visit, btw). The seasoning that brand-new Station Tavern in South Park sprinkles on theirs is akin to culinary crack. Offshore Tavern & Grill puts garlic in their tots. Although they're not on the menu at The Riviera Supper Club, rumor has tots will appear if you ask for them. The Fleetwood serves an oversized version of them that I affectionately consider 'roided-up tots; they're massive, man-sized balls with creamy mashed potato innards — big enough to poke an eye out if hurled aggressively. And these are just a smattering of spots on the tot list I've been tallying.

Now WHY exactly am I on the tot trek? The fact that I have no life of my own is only part of it. November is our annual Food Issue, which, if I have anything to say about it (and I do), will be busting at the bind with the very latest culinary news and trends. One such trend is how comfort food is being redefined for the times; kitchens in both casual and finer dining joints are looking beyond the usual comfort dish with playful, creative interpretations and presentations. It's comfort food that is also fun.

Know of a dish that's the next tater tot? Or one that could at least compete? Email me your favorite comfort food dish being served up in a San Diego restaurant right now and why it's so great. It's gotta be either new or a best-kept secret. Your dish and the restaurant serving it could make a “Reader Recommendation” feature in our November issue.

If you need me in the mean time, I'll be on the treadmill. Damn tots ...

Sarah Daoust

Managing Editor

sarahd@944.com

  Add to Faves